There are so many different interfacings and interlinings out there, it can be hard to know which product is right for you - don't despair read our quick guide and get the right interfacing for the job - you might even save yourself some money along the way!
Interfacing versus Interlining versus lining
Lining
Lining a project is like adding a petticoat to your project. The lining is usually sewn in and tends to be made a fabric layer rather than an interlining or interfacing material. The fabric moves independently from the main fabric and adds:
warmth
modesty (if the top layer is sheer or lacey)
helps the top layer lay smoothly - stopping it cling to every lump and bump!
acts as a barrier to stop the inside of your project leaking out - in a beanbag for example.
hides your seams.
Interfacing
Interfacings are there to:
reinforce your fabric in areas of high wear and tear (along a zip or around button holes or pockets etc..).
change the way your fabric looks (creating a stiff collar or cuff or making a tote bag stand up even when placed on the floor).
add warmth or a cosy padded feel in the case of fusible fleeces.
make your fabric behave like a thicker fabric.
make your fabric appear more like cardboard (in tie backs, pelmets, bag bases etc...).
Interlining
The word interlining means different things to different people. For some it is the same as interfacing, for some its just like interfacing but used over a larger area and for some its a separate layer inside your project - between the main fabric and your lining. In practice, just like interfacing, it can be fusible or sew in and can be made of exactly the same materials - so focus less on the word used and more on the impact it will have when choosing what to use.
Questions to ask yourself when choose your interfacing
Sew in or fusible/iron on interfacing
We sell fusible interfacings at Fabric Shed because they are the most convenient type to use - simply iron them onto the back of your fabric (following all the instructions) and you are ready to go ahead and sew your pieces of fabric together - if you use sew in interfacing you will need to baste/sew your interfacing to your fabric pieces before putting your project together.
Although fusible interfacing is much more convenient it is not always the best option. We recommend using sew in interfacing in the following situations:
If you are working with fabric which is very heat sensitive (pure silk for example) with a pile/nap, such as velvet or fur, with texture that could be ironed out - like crepe, with fabrics which are very loosely woven, or fabrics with sequins or beads attached, the process of ironing the interfacing onto the back can damage your main fabric or impact too greatly on the finish.
If you are working with light weight fabric and want to retain its floaty quality.
If you are working with fabric which is, or will be, pleated or gathered as the interfacing will add too much structure and bulk.
Is your fabric stretchy?
If your fabric is stretchy you need an interfacing that will stretch with it.
If you use a standard interfacing with a stretchy fabric it will either stop your fabric stretching, or peel off when the fabric starts to stretch.
For stretchy fabrics we recommend using Vlieseline H609 with light-medium weight fabrics, or Vlieseline G770 if your fabric is medium to heavy weight.
Will your interfacing be visible?
If your interfacing will be seen on your finished project you should use a woven interfacing. Woven interfacing is made in the same way as woven fabric - giving it many of the same properties. It is soft, attractive to look at, and will withstand the wear and tear exposed interfacing is subjected to.
We recommend using our own brand woven interfacing or Vlieseline G700 for non-stretchy fabrics, or Vlieseline G770 for stretchy fabrics.
What is it for?
Woven interfacings mimic the natural drape of fabric, whilst standard interfacings reduce or remove drape.
If you are stiffening your fabric, making a cuff for example, you actively want to remove the drape and add crispness. In this situation you should use standard interfacing.
If you are using a small piece of interfacing, reinforcing a buttonhole for example, the interfaced area is so small as to not effect the overall drape. Here you can use either a woven or standard interfacing.
If you are lining a larger area - a pocket or floppy collar for example - you want to mimic the drape of the main fabric - making woven interfacing the best choice.
How thick is your fabric?
Interfacings come in a number of different weights from light weight to extra-heavy weight.
When working out which weight to use start by matching the weight of your fabric to your interfacing - a medium weight quilting cotton should go with a medium weight interfacing, a silk with a light weight interfacing etc..
If you want to exaggerate the effect of the interfacing in your finished project move up the range of interfacings, if you want to minimise the impact of the interfacing move down the range.
Download our printable guide below...
